A visit to Gränna is not complete without trying a Gränna polkagris. This colourful, peppermint flavoured candy is one of Sweden’s best known local specialities, and watching it being made is one of the most enjoyable things to do in the town. From its nineteenth century origins to today’s lively candy shops, the story of the Gränna polkagris offers a delicious introduction to Swedish candy and the attractions of Lake Vättern’s charming hillside town.
What is a Gränna polkagris?
A Gränna polkagris is a traditional Swedish peppermint candy, usually recognised by its red and white spiral pattern. The classic version is made by cooking sugar, glucose syrup and water into a hot, flexible mixture. Peppermint flavouring is added before the candy is pulled, twisted and shaped into long sticks. Once it cools, the result is a hard, glossy sweet with a strong mint flavour and a satisfying crunch.
The word polkagris can be translated loosely as a type of peppermint rock candy. In Sweden, however, it means more than a sweet. It is closely connected with Gränna, the town where the tradition began, and many visitors buy a stick as a souvenir of their trip. Modern makers also produce polkagrisar in different colours, flavours and shapes, but the red and white peppermint version remains the classic choice.
You may see both polkagris and polkagrisar used in Sweden. Polkagris is the singular form, while polkagrisar is the plural. At local shops, you will find the candy sold as sticks, small pieces, lollipops, gift boxes and decorative shapes. Some varieties are softer than the traditional hard candy, while others include flavours such as raspberry, lemon, chocolate or salty liquorice.
The history of Gränna polkagris
The history of the Gränna polkagris begins in 1859 with Amalia Eriksson. After becoming a widow, she needed to support herself and her daughter. She applied for permission to make and sell sweets and baked goods in Gränna, a small town founded by Count Per Brahe the Younger in the seventeenth century. Her peppermint candy became popular, giving her a successful business and creating a tradition that still defines the town.
For many years, the exact recipe and method were treated as closely guarded knowledge. The candy was prepared by hand, and its production required strength, timing and experience. The hot sugar mixture had to be worked while it was still warm enough to stretch. Makers combined red and white sections, pulled the candy into long ropes and twisted them into the familiar striped pattern.
Amalia Eriksson’s story is an important part of the tradition because it reflects both entrepreneurship and independence. At a time when women had limited opportunities to run businesses, she created a livelihood through skill and determination. Her success also helped establish Gränna as a destination for visitors looking for local food and handmade Swedish candy.
Today, candy makers in Gränna continue to use traditional techniques, although modern equipment can make some stages easier and more consistent. Many shops still let visitors watch the process through a window or from a viewing area. The sight of workers pulling, twisting and cutting warm candy helps explain why a simple sweet has become one of Sweden’s most recognisable food souvenirs.
How polkagris is made
Cooking the sugar mixture
The process starts with a sugar mixture that is heated to a high temperature. The exact proportions and cooking time vary between makers, but the mixture must reach the right consistency. If it is too soft, the finished candy will not set properly. If it is overheated, the texture and flavour can suffer.
When the mixture is ready, it is poured onto a work surface. At this stage, the candy is extremely hot and must be handled carefully. A portion is coloured red, while the larger portion remains white. Peppermint oil or another flavouring is then added. The familiar mint aroma often fills the shop while the candy is being prepared.
Pulling and twisting the candy
The candy maker stretches and folds the mixture repeatedly. This adds air and creates the lighter texture associated with traditional polkagris. The red and white sections are rolled into long ropes, placed together and twisted. The maker must work quickly because the candy becomes harder as it cools.
Once the striped rope has reached the desired thickness, it is cut into individual sticks. Each piece may be rolled or shaped by hand, and the ends are often given a neat finish. Watching this process is one of the best parts of visiting a polkagris shop. It combines cooking, craftsmanship and a small amount of theatre without feeling like a staged attraction.
Where to buy Gränna polkagris
Gränna has many candy shops in and around the town centre. Several are located along the main shopping streets, making it easy to visit more than one during a walk. Shop names and opening hours can change, so it is wise to check current information before travelling, especially outside the main summer season.
Look for shops with visible candy kitchens or large windows facing the street. These are ideal if you want to see the production process rather than simply buy a packaged sweet. Depending on the time of day, you may see the mixture being cooked, pulled, twisted or cut. Some shops offer samples, while others focus on gift packaging and a wide choice of flavours.
Prices vary according to size, flavour and presentation. A traditional stick is usually an inexpensive souvenir, while handmade gift boxes and larger decorative pieces cost more. If you are travelling with children, smaller pieces are easier to pack and share. Hard candy can become sticky in warm weather, so keep it away from direct sunlight during your journey.
Buying directly from a local maker is part of the experience. You can ask about ingredients, production methods and the differences between flavours. Many shops sell other forms of Swedish candy as well, including chocolate, liquorice, fudge and seasonal sweets. This makes Gränna a useful stop for anyone interested in Swedish food traditions.
Best time to experience the candy tradition
Summer is the busiest time to visit Gränna. The town attracts day trippers, families and travellers exploring the shores of Lake Vättern. During sunny weekends, candy shops can become crowded, particularly in the middle of the day. Arriving in the morning or later in the afternoon usually gives you a more relaxed chance to watch the makers at work.
Spring and early autumn can offer a quieter experience, with comfortable conditions for walking around the town. Some attractions and shops may have shorter opening hours outside the high season, so plan ahead. Winter visits have their own atmosphere, especially when the town is decorated for Christmas, but not every candy shop will operate on the same schedule as in summer.
If you want to take photographs of the candy making, ask before using a flash or standing close to the work area. Shops are working environments as well as visitor attractions, and the makers need space to handle hot sugar safely.
Gränna attractions beyond the polkagris
The Gränna polkagris is the town’s most famous attraction, but it is not the only reason to visit. Gränna sits on a steep slope beside Lake Vättern, with views across the water towards the island of Visingsö. Its streets include colourful wooden houses, small gardens, cafés and independent shops. The compact centre is easy to explore on foot.
Lake Vättern viewpoints
Gränna’s hillside setting creates several viewpoints over Lake Vättern. From higher parts of town, you can often see the lake stretching far into the distance and Visingsö on the horizon. The views are especially attractive in clear weather, when the water takes on deep blue and silver tones.
A walk through the residential streets can be rewarding because the town’s character is found in its details. Look for traditional wooden architecture, painted façades and small local gardens. Comfortable shoes are useful because some streets are steep, and the surfaces may be uneven in older areas.
Gränna harbour
The harbour is one of the most popular places to relax near the water. It has restaurants, cafés and space to sit while watching boats arrive and depart. During the warmer months, ferries leave from the harbour for Visingsö, making it a convenient starting point for a longer day trip.
A harbour visit also provides a different view of Gränna. From the shore, you can see how the town rises up the hillside, with its colourful buildings and church tower above the lake. Consider combining a morning in the candy shops with lunch by the water before continuing to the island.
Visingsö
Visingsö is the largest island in Lake Vättern and one of the most popular day trips from Gränna. Ferries generally operate more frequently during the summer, but schedules vary by season and weather. Check the timetable before setting out, particularly if you are travelling with a car or have limited time.
On the island, visitors can explore cycling routes, historic sites and quiet rural landscapes. Traditional horse drawn tours are a well known feature, while bicycles provide an independent way to see more of the island. Visingsö Castle ruins, churchyards and old avenues of trees add historical interest to the trip.
The island is larger and more spread out than central Gränna, so allow several hours if you want to explore beyond the ferry landing. A day trip can easily include a picnic, a cycle ride and a visit to a historic site before returning to the mainland for another polkagris.
Gränna Museum
Gränna Museum presents local history and the story of the town’s best known residents. Exhibitions may include information about Amalia Eriksson, regional life and the cultural history of the area. It is a useful place to visit if you want more context for the polkagris tradition than a shop demonstration can provide.
Museum opening hours and exhibitions can change, so check the official schedule before your visit. Families may appreciate combining the museum with a candy workshop or a walk through the old town, creating a varied day without long journeys between activities.
Brahehus ruins
North of Gränna, the ruins of Brahehus stand beside the E4 motorway. The seventeenth century castle was built by Count Per Brahe the Younger and is now a dramatic viewpoint over Lake Vättern and Visingsö. The site is easy to combine with a road trip through the region, although it is not located in the town centre.
The remaining walls are atmospheric, but the main attraction is the broad panorama. Bring a camera if the weather is clear, and take care near uneven ground and exposed edges. Brahehus is a short visit for many travellers, but it adds historical depth to a trip focused on Gränna’s food traditions.
How to plan a Gränna polkagris visit
- Allow at least two or three hours for the town centre if you want to visit candy shops, enjoy the views and stop for coffee.
- Visit in the morning if you prefer smaller crowds and a better chance of seeing a full candy making demonstration.
- Check ferry times before planning a trip to Visingsö, especially during spring, autumn and winter.
- Wear comfortable shoes because Gränna is built on a slope and some streets are steep.
- Keep hard candy cool and protected from direct sunlight when carrying it in a car or bag.
- Ask shop staff about allergens and ingredients if you have dietary restrictions.
- Compare flavours before buying, but remember that traditional peppermint is the classic Gränna choice.
What does a Gränna polkagris taste like?
The traditional version has a clear peppermint flavour with intense sweetness and a firm texture. It is designed to be sucked or slowly dissolved rather than chewed immediately. The red and white colours are mainly decorative, although some makers may use different flavour combinations in coloured varieties.
For visitors who find peppermint too strong, local shops usually offer many alternatives. Fruity sweets can taste brighter and softer, while chocolate and caramel versions are richer. Swedish liquorice is another popular choice, ranging from sweet to strongly salty. Trying several varieties is part of the fun, particularly when travelling with friends or family.
Because the candy is handmade, small differences in shape, colour and texture are normal. These variations are part of its appeal. A handmade stick does not need to look exactly like every other piece, and the process gives each local shop its own style.
Why the Gränna polkagris matters to Swedish culture
The Gränna polkagris shows how a local product can become a symbol of place. Its identity is tied to the town’s history, its independent makers and the experience of seeing it produced by hand. Visitors do not simply buy a sweet. They encounter a story about work, family, business and regional pride.
The tradition also demonstrates how food tourism can support a small town. Candy shops bring visitors into the centre, where they may also eat at local restaurants, stay overnight, visit museums or travel onwards to Visingsö. The polkagris acts as an introduction to the wider collection of Gränna attractions.
For an English speaking visitor, the experience is easy to enjoy even without detailed knowledge of Swedish history. The production is visual, the shops are welcoming and the finished candy travels well as a gift. Whether you spend an afternoon in Gränna or include it in a longer Lake Vättern road trip, tasting a Gränna polkagris is a simple way to connect with one of Sweden’s most distinctive local traditions.